The week with Mom (Part 1)

Shannon, Thomas, Amy and Diane

 This was our busiest week of the trip, with Amy's Mother and Sister (Diane and Shannon) joining us for a jaunt across the Central Western States, zig-zagging from National Park to National Park. This landscape was full of surprises, landscapes of unbelievable proportions and small friendly desert towns. This was a busy week planned down to the second, so it was nice for the week to just go with the flow and drive where I was told. Diane did a excellent job of cramming so much into the week but after the week it was nice to revert back to our casual less planned wanderings of the country.

Zion Canyon

The first trip we ventured from Las Vegas to the Hover Dam, just and hour or so away, doubled by traffic unfortunately. Quite the impressive structure, but I was expecting it to be bigger. Departing our pyramid hotel we headed for Utah, to Zion National Park. Having had a big and busy experience in Vegas this was an appreciated transition back to nature. We got to Zion perfect timing for a picnic, graced below towering canyon walls cut through the red Navajo Sandstones. Using the Parks bus service we shuttled around the park for small walks, sights and to reach the head of the canyon where it narrows to a slot canyon only meters wide and hundreds tall, with a small creek flowing through. This the driving creator of the canyon over millions of years! Again we had stumbled upon a place like no where we have ever been before. A colourful towering predominance above with a light cover of greenery blanketing the valley floor.

Bryce Canyon Hoodoos

Heading that afternoon out of the park leading along a stunning drive that continued everyday for the following weeks. The next day in Bryce Canyon National Park, the surprise gem of the trip. Have you heard of Bryce? . . . We had not either! Have you heard of a hoodoo? . . . you might recognise them from the odd western film. Anyway, a cool start to the morning below 0°C high up on the Paunsaugunt Plateau, these fluctuating temperatures is how the hoodoos formed. Driving ourselves this time we follow the amphitheater rim stopping at endless views of the strangest, brightest, colourful orange landscape, questioning how such unique formations come to being. We took the most rewarding 3 hour walk down right into the hoodoos, snaking down around and through. This day was completely unexpected, just another dot on the map, but something truly spectacular!

Getting amongst the hoodoos

Our first sighting of the Grand Canyon

 Really getting our zig-zag on now we headed south back into Arizona, and today being my brithday, and the way to spend it, at the Grand Canyon! We cruised in and were initially just blown away with the grandeur of the chasm beyond. Layer after layer of rock beds disappearing so deep down to the turquoise river far below. Amy and I took a walk meandering on the crater rim walkway, a track that really just hangs to the edge of the cliff.

My Birthday beers

Crater rim walkway

  I would have loved to head down into the canyon but unfortunately not the time on our schedule. They said lots of people die each year trying to get to the bottom in one day, that's about what I would have liked to do, so guess that's good I didn't try. We sat with our legs dangling over the cliff and I had a bottle or two of my birthday beers. Some fantastic IPAs, sitting in the sun at a remarkable place. We went out later to view the sunset followed by a really nice dinner. And I got a fossil for my birthday too!!!

Sunset

to be continued......

VIVA LAS VEGAS BABY!!!!!

Our arrival to Vegas was anxiously anticipated by my sister, as apparent by the assault of call and texts received on the journey from Death Valley! I hadn't seen my family in a year, the longest by 7 months I had ever been away! So I couldn't wait for my reunion with my sister Nicole and her husband Tom especially. We ran into their hotel, rushed through the lobby to the pool, pushed past people and in the doorway and just hugged and cried our eyes out!!! The puffy eyes just enhanced the "not having showered for 7 days look." It was just wonderful to finally be together, and felt like we had never been apart. They bought us drinks and we sat in the pool. Tom and Nicole had the most amazing view of the strip from their hotel room, and we were finally able to shower at theirs, and get ready for our night!

Amy and her sister Nicole

Having been to Vegas a few times, my brother-in-law Tom warned us about the strip: 1. You are allowed to carry open bottles of alcohol around the streets and 2. There will be a people every meter shoving cards for prostitutes into your hands. Thomas decided to make it into a game and he collected as many cards as he could.

The Strip

Hitting the strip in style we took occasional stops  to either gamble, grab a drink or just take a look at the extravagant casinos. We were just blown away by the crowds of people, the lights and the energy. It was all a bit much for Thomas who ended up not really liking Vegas much, but I was just mesmerized by it all. There were street performers with unbelievable performances, one group made up of 4 young African American kids, doing the most amazing break dancing routine! It was   awesome!

The Luxor Pyramid Hotel

We stopped into Caesar's Palace (he actually lived there right?), the Venetian, the Mirage, and finally gambled at the Bellagio. With the fountains erupting in the front, I felt like we were in Ocean's Eleven, just minus the large payout. I gambled once and put $20 on a roulette table only to lose it immediately, but hey when in Vegas!! Tom however was throwing round stacks of twenties thinking that he was actually going to end up on top. Naat!

Another reunion  for Saturday, with my mummy! Again, the reunion was amazing, with hugs and tears. She couldn't stop touching me and saying she couldn't believe I was actually there in front of her! Staying at the Luxor Pyramid hotel, this was to be the first of our beautiful accommodations while traveling with my mom for the week!!! The inside is pretty spectacular with a humongous sphynx, and other Egyptian statues. We road our elevator up to our room, and to our discomfort felt a weird shaking sensation. Thomas was the brilliant one to point out, this must be our elevator making the awkward journey up to our room on an angle of the pyramid! Crazy!

New York, New York Hotel

We were impressed with the New York, New York, the Eiffel Tower and France themed Casino, and we got completely lost within the monstrosity which is Caesar's Palace. Every hall we went down led to another fountain, statue or painting.

Amy and her sister Shannon playing slots

We took a  wander down the "Old Vegas Strip,"  saw a sexy pirate show, with sinking ships and all, and a volcano erupting at the Mirage, the night had finally arrived.

Shannon, Thomas and Amy outside Beatles LOVE

The one thing Thomas and I wanted to do most in Vegas, was to see the Cirque du Soleil Beatles LOVE show. We were completely blown away with the spectacular, and we loved the music, acrobatics and theater. I sang along with every song, and the effects, dancing, costumes and performers was just fantastic.

To Death Valley

I made it, at 282ft below sea level, Death Valley!

I have always wanted to go to Death Valley since my very first visit to America in '95. Someone mentioning something like 45 degrees C in the shade sounded cool to me so it was one of my highest priorities for this trip. Doing as I do, I looked at a map and said that's where were are going, heading from Yosemite National Park across the famous Tioga Pass, to heights of 3,000m+.

Alpine Wonderland

Good driving

Was a cool plan, but it was still only spring and of course the road wasn't opening for a few more days due to snow. Meant the 2 hour drive to Death Valley turned into a full days driving 400 miles round over the nearest open pass. Did seem like a bit of a drag but it turned in to one of my favorite days. We left the lush forests of Yosemite transgressing into a snow covered alpine landscape then doping back down into the desserts East of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The driving way amazing. I think Americans must be scared of these twisting, curving and winding roads, maybe they prefer sticking to their super-duper-mega-highways. This was just a stunning example of a beautiful open road, the sorta place that TopGear would be doing car reviews and there we no other cars in sight either. Wish I could have had a Viper or Mustang, but the Crown Vic held its own!

East of the Sierra Nevadas

Lone Pine Campground

That night we stayed at my favourite campground, a small town site up in the hill behind Lone Pine Indian Reservation. A famous spot for western cinema with orange rocky summits, strange outcrops and actual tumble weeds surly featuring in almost every western film. Who knows maybe we might be attacked by Indians or held-up by Cowboys on the run while in town!

With plans to get to Las Vegas to reunite Amy with her sister by early afternoon, we made a early start, 6.30am. A good idea considering we were heading into one of the hottest places on Earth. The day lived up to all my expectations and was certainly worth the journey. The heat was already building, perfect I thought for our journey down into the Valley system to the lowest point in the US, at 282ft below sea level! Some amazing geology and geography was on display here, some random patches of sand dunes, rocks of unimaginable colourations, and vast salt flats. There was a few remains of human history in the area from past mining attempts, not many people about and even less wildlife and plants. And it was hot, I would have had it hotter, but none the less the most amazing dry heat I have ever experienced.

Skateboarding in Death Valley

Artists Point, Death Valley

Yosemite National Park

Yosemite Valley

Arriving in Yosemite on Tuesday the 1st of May we rolled around a corner to be set upon the edge of the deep glacially carved valley. The way it first strikes you is not of tall mountains above but nearly the valley sunken into the Earth below us. This was our first National Park of the trip, so we bought a relatively cheap ($80) year pass for entrance into all National Parks in the US. Something Thomas ungratefully learns with time, unlike his home, you often need to pay entrance fees for parks, beaches and roads in America. Camping it was agian, with a new phenomea called a "Bear Box," a large metal box at each campsite that is bear-proof. The Park Rangers stressed that ALL food, liquids, toiletries, anything that smells, had to be out of the car and into the bear box. It seems Yosemite bears have become extremely clever and have figured out how to break into cars to get at the food!

Lower Yosemite Falls

With only two full days at the park, we spent the rest of the day first day walking to the grand Yosemite Falls, to Mirror Lake and had a nice wander around Yosemite Valley. We saw some deer wandering through the meadows, but other than that the wildlife was only the hippopotamus' waddling off their tour coaches.

Dinners over the trip generally consisted of a basic version of the normal food we eat: pasta, curry, Mexican were all regular features on Thomas' menu skillfully cooked on our little tramping gas stove, with two pots.  We learned that a good warm meal set us well for the cold nights ahead. As it turns out Thomas had a nice warm down sleeping bad, however I was traveling without. Being a gentleman, Thomas let me use his sleeping bag, leaving him with his silk liner and wrapped in clothes!

Our 5 hour hike planned for the next day, suggested by the ranger, went via two waterfalls, Vernal and Nevada Falls and avoided closed tracks due to snow. We didn't expect the track to be deserted as our previous tramps over the year in NZ, but to our dismay there was so many tourists, hikers, school groups, Asians with big cameras and even a couple of the hippopotamus'. Thomas taught me how to spot an amateur hiker, besides those in jeans, dresses or sandals, those in brand new, never worn boots, just stick out. Luckily after a few steep hills the crowds began to disperse and we were awarded with stunning views of the first Vernal Falls.

Double Rainbow at Vernal Falls

 

Thomas on the Mist Trail by Vernal Falls

The ranger warned us to bring rain jackets as we would be travelling on the "Mist Trail." We didn't know what to expect, but he was not kidding! We quickly learned the Mist Trail was a series of stone steps that went along side the falls, and thus spraying everything in its path. Thomas didn't bring rain gear, and thus ran on ahead at a fast pace, but I could hardly believe the gorgeous sight in front of me, so I took my time, and about 200 pictures, while getting completely soaked. Atop Vernal Falls we sat and took in the views and luckily at this point most of those amateur hikers had stopped, so we were graced with quieter trails ahead. The walk was steep, grueling in spots but rewarding as we reached the very top at Nevada Falls.

Thomas and Amy at the bottom of Nevada Falls

On our last night we took off in the car in search of a sunset view and after about 30 mins of driving we found a spot. Perched on rocks that felt as if they were hanging off the cliff and sipping on a Yosemite Pale Ale and we watched the gorgeous sunset across Half Dome and the Yosemite Valley. 

Half Dome at sunset

 Departing the next morning, we stopped at some Giant Sequoia trees. These trees are just massive, unimaginable giants of the forest and so appropriately placed in a such a dramatic beautiful landscape, created over time in the hands of nature!

Yosemite Valley

California

Getting into the country, Amy and I did a split covert entrance as imigration might not have liked the idea that I had ulterior motives to enter the country other than that stated on my visa. Crusing through undetected we now had to convince a taxi driver that we could fit 4 large bags, other small ones and a surfboard and three human beings into a Toyota Prius. He didn't think it could be done. I made it happen. For his none-belief, he got a bad tip! 

Getting right into it we collected our beast of an American car our Ford Crown Victoria aka "a cop car" which will lead us over the next month across the USA, West Coast to East. We had the first few nights in Santa Monica, staying at a friend's house that studied in NZ along with Amy. Made a good base for exploring the L.A coast without having to get too involved with that big old city. First stop for us just after lunch time fresh out of Tahiti was Santa Monica Beach.

Arriving here was the dream California arrival, rolling up in our mean wheels to a palm tree studded golden coast, glistening turquoise Pacific Ocean, sunshine beaming and just decent vibes all round. We couldn't believe we were really there. We dashed up to the Pier for out first American feed, Cheese burger, fires and a milk shake. The best I have had, serverd up by some friendly and chirpy African Americans. Still taking it all in, learnt walking bare foot doesn't work so well over here, as I got involved with some chewing gum. Didn't let it phase me! Straight back to the beach for a surf was what was in order. Ended up making friends with a dolphin, talked to two young locals and caught a few small California waves. Pretty stoaked about that.

Surfing at Santa Monica

Thomas at Huntington Beach

The following day we headed south down the coast just keen to see whatever came upon us. We found a few awesome farmer's markets where we got amongst some kettle corn, strawberries, asparagus and oranges. Nice little bounty! Was quite amazing how the whole coast is built up, in a very developed way it was quite lovely. Some of it much more exclusively than others but I doubt there is any cheap property for miles. Lots of cute piers and wharfs, shopping strips and lined streets of palms. Got to Huntington beach for another surf with some bigger waves but had some competition for them here. Made it as far south as Newport Beach in Orange County,  we were happy to see what was depicted in the TV show The OC was not exaggerated, in fact some people do live like that. Reality check, we're in America when you see a late teen handling a gun across the road while sitting at a red light in Long Beach, LA. But to even it out met some friendly whale watchers atop a cliff and saw some killer whales in action.

The California Coast

Heading north on Friday, a last look around Venice beach and finally decided on what skateboard to buy, big decision! Also last chance to turn down the offers from the people in green scrubs in front of "the doctor is in the building" sign, persuading you to get a medical Marijuana prescription. Went for a skate along the famious beach front board walk and headed for Malibu. Again very developed coastline but started to spread to some open stretches. In Malibu they pretty much build their houses right atop the beach. Stopped in to Santa Barbra for lunch. A really nice casual beach vibe here with a really cute central town area. Finally got off the big highways and onto the real Coastal Highway 1, a nice curvy open road that we followed up to San Francisco. But for the night it was Jalama Beach, our first night in our Walmart tent and air mattress. A windy night put it through its first test.

Happy Hour at Morro Bay

Stoked to play with my new Basketball and have the famous and yum Jalama burger before heading off. Heading north on another specular day making it for happy hour at Morro Bay. Very much getting away from the big busy Southern California here. Had some problems when we discovered all the campgrounds were full and had to venture up a seriously steep and windy road to a spot that might have some space. Ended up being a wicked as forest service campsite, a very basic but picturesque spot secluded up in the forest. 

By this point the coastline had become very rugged and exposed, with towering cliffs and some serious surf pounding in, still gleaming weather and a perfect driving road though. Following the coast was a real treat of seclusion and stunning scenery, a great precursor to the amazing landscapes that lay ahead for our road trip. We made it through the Big Sur coastline through Monterey and to Santa Cruz, where that place was just bustling. Roller coaster rides, motorbikes, beach goers the whole lot. We made it to Half Moon Bay for the evening, just south of San Francisco.

Thomas and Amy on the Big Sur Coastline

Santa Cruz

I started our day in San Fran with a surf in the famous frigid and wild waters of these parts, didn't find the 20+ft waves of 'Mavericks' surf spot but still got some grunty clean lines along with the crowd. Parking is a problem in cities, cost us $20 for the day. A day on foot, we must have walked 20kms in all. The financial district was very nice, then we found ourselves in a poorer part then to the posh financial guys homes on the hills. Over to the Golden Gate and a little wander round Fisherman's Wharf. Found salvation in a bar with, on our count, 68 beers on tap, nice to escape the mess of tourists and tourism that was just a debacle of a street! Out of the city and a bit of an adventure driving in the dark up, over and round the hills in Diablo State Park to find a campsite. A few hours drive the following day taking us to Yosemite National Park.......

Tahiti

After a very emotional departure from New Zealand, we arrived in Tahiti at midnight (8 hours before we left)  on April 20^th. We had a lightening storm welcoming us to the island nation, but the first thing we notced was the heat. A lovely band with a Tahitian woman dancing also welcomed us into the airport and we  soon found our taxi driver, thanks to his “Deverson” sign! He drove us to our accommodation 'Pension Te Miti' in Paea, which took about 20 min. We were a bit shocked at how French the country was from the get go, but luckily our driver could speak English well enough. He was talking to Thomas about surfing in Tahiti, but couldn’t quite understand what Thomas meant when he was talking about his wetsuit! 

Thomas at the Grotto Caves of Mara'a

Gorgeous black sand beach on the North Coast of Tahiti-Nui

Ok so some positive stuff now! With a hire car we could escape some of the busy-ness and witness a more relaxed Tahitian life. Thomas did manage to have a surf at a local beach (not the reef break I craved, cos I wussed out). We did find some gems, waterfalls, blowholes, grottos, and a Polynesian dance show. We climbed in the stinking heat up a hill with stunning ocean views,  snorkeled, swam, sampled the local Tres Brassiers, Tahiti's craft brewery, made all kinds of friends at the Pension and when hitchhiking (one guy infact drove the jet skis for the tow-ins for the pro surfing competition on the ledgindary Teahaupoo big wave - very cool!)                                                                               

Thomas pulled on stage to learn some dance moves!

Amy + Thomas with dancers at the Polynesian Dance Show

We also took a day trip to the very nice of island of Moorea, known as the second most beautiful island in French Polynesia, it did not disappoint. We took the bus from the port to the Bay of Cook (about 13kms away) and spent all day walking back to the ferry. The Bay was absolutely gorgeous, and the walk was fabulous, but it was hot! Luckily we passed a few 5 star resorts, so walked right in and enjoyed their immaculate facilities! The bungalows over the reef and beach were gorgeous, with pools, bars and restaurants and all the fancy stuff, in all their commercial glory. Our host at the Pension had expressed how nice Tahitians were, but we were still surprised when on two separate occuasions two cars randomly stopped and offered us a ride! With moments like the magnificent sunset to look back on over Moorea while on the ferry, the friendly folks we met and looking back on our little pacific adventure made the trip a success!